Get Your Unusual Seafood on with Trawler Trash
Written by: Rachel Mantock
If there ever was a way to strike the perfect balance between modern serenity and sham shackle beach hut chic, then Upper Street’s Trawler Trash have found it.
The new seafood spot serves nothing but the ocean’s finest, with a twist.
They’re giving less well-known fish a platform to be experienced and gorged on by ravenous locals, hence the name ‘Trawler Trash’: they literally ‘turn trash into treasure’.
The ‘by-catch’ as fishermen call it, is the 20% of other fish that are caught in the net when a specific type of fish is being sought after.
This often gets thrown away because us entitled, overindulged city types are not interested in anything but a fat fillet being on our plates, especially a species that hasn’t yet got Instagram buzzing with avocado on toast level fame.
Trawler Trash’s concept is in line with the big move towards less wastage, especially when it comes to animal produce, forcing their diners to experience something new and exciting while doing their small bit to encourage a better process when it comes to acquiring and using fish.
The blue toned artwork on the walls creates the atmosphere of charming English beach towns and the sandy white beaches of Greece, splashed against a background of chalky white towering villages with royal blue domed roofs.
Sat inside one of their well air conditioned booths (air conditioning becomes a big part of my food reviewing when it rolls into the summer months, because you can barely give a glowing review of the food if you melted into your seat while dining), my dinner date and I had the right level of privacy while also feeling part of the buzz inside the restaurant.
Ingeniously, I brought someone who hates fish to a pretty much fish-only restaurant, but that actually made the experience all that much better, because he ended up loving everything he ate. You know your fish restaurant is great when even self-confessed fish haters love it.
Naturally, we ordered a huge bowl of jersey oysters with signature ‘trash’ dressing, bigger than we could realistically manage in one night, because it would be rude not to when in Upper Street’s answer to coastal dining.
Then, I went straight for the cider mussels, garnished with apple and parsley, with a dab of clotted cream and a side of chips.
I was already full once my main dish arrived, but carried on eating anyway, because it was too good not to, so my expanding stomach would just have to wait.
I often dine backwards but skipped dessert altogether this time, because the main food performers were so great I didn’t want to taint it with sugar and spice and everything nice and calorific. Instead, we ordered our starters last, sharing charred cuttlefish and kohlrabi with coriander dressing, along with loch etive smoked trout with wasabi and dill.
Again – absolutely glorious. Each dish was so fresh and flavour filled, you almost want to go home, power on the Mac book and start booking mini beach breaks right away. To feed your love of seafood while also tapping into a sustainable method of consuming fish is to kill two birds with one stone.
And I’m all for discovering new types of food, while sat in a lush setting enjoying grapefruit and lemon infused tarragon gin in a funky glass. So, what’s not to love?
205 Upper Street, N1 1RQ
Monday – Closed
Tuesday to Friday – 11.30am-11pm
Saturday – 9am-11pm
Sunday – 9am-9pm
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