REVIEW: Lunch at The Lady Mildmay

Written by: Sophie Taylor

During our Newington Green Takeover Day we set up shop in the piano boasting, dog loving Lady Mildmay public house, blindly unaware of quite how tasty their menu would be.

We pored over the menu for a good forty minutes, well and truly ruined for choice. This is more a list of gourmet delights than standard pub fodder. 

From truffle risotto to mussels to rare blade steak, we drooled our orders to owner Steve. It’s a hard life, we know, but somebody’s got to do it. Now pass us a napkin, this is going to get messy.

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Red wine and red onion soup

Hubba hubba, this soup was the one for me. This dish is worth it for the croutons alone. Is it a healthy choice? Probably not, since it smells like naughty fatty Christmas.

With the strong red wine aroma and rich red onion, this is a satisfying and sexy soup not for the faint hearted. I dare you to avoid the strong swimming croutons, crispy and fluffy and massaged in olive oil lotion, at your peril.

I wanted to lift the bowl to my lips and slurp the rest but kindly refrained. Not that I was in polite company, by any means…

Would order again, with extra croutons because I’m a tubby tubby #doughgirlforlife.

North Four, North London magazine, The Lady Mildmay pub, restaurant, food, menu, penne

Mussels in tomato and tarragon sauce

Junior Designer Julia and Account Coordinator Geraldine both plumped for the mussels. Although a little light for a mussel dish and not as filling, the moules were fresh and succulent. Their accompanying homemade bread sat proudly in formidably sized loaf form on the side of the bar, waiting to be sliced and crudely dipped in the tarragon and tomato mussel broth with vigour. Order again? Perhaps as a starter, this is a perfect entree dish. We’re hungry hippos here at North Four.

Butternut squash and blue stilton risotto

Claire, our Creative Director, got hot and heavy with this one. Sometimes risotto is just a shade too much. It slaps you in the face with a mix of heavy creaminess and strong flavours, at first pleasant until they merge into one repetitively stodgy taste. We’re not usually a fan. We are, however, a fan of butternut squash, sage and blue stilton, so we threw caution to the wind and ordered the lunchtime risotto. Living life on the edge, that’s us. We did good though, this risotto was a winner.

North Four, North London magazine, The Lady Mildmay pub, restaurant, food, menu, penne

A decent portion of hot rice, peppered with just a hint of the stilton (too much and it would inevitably taste like feet, as is the way with cheese of the blue variety) and a good amount of earthy sage. The chunks of sweet butternut squash were cooked to soft perfection and there was just the right amount of chew in the rice – mushy but not so much that it veered dangerously close to baby food territory, which is the usual curse of many a risotto. The perfect antidote to the increasingly cold Autumnal weather.

Spicy Chorizo and Garlic Penne

Good? Yas. Spicy? More than you’d think. Even gluten free Claire had a sneaky taste and approved wholeheartedly of this meaty wheaty taste boat. After stepping down from a chair on the last obligatory food snap, Staff Photographer Mike finally got to chow down on his garlic penne lunch and didn’t speak ’til his plate was clean. Spotlessly clean. A creamy yet spicy hot plate, this is a meal we all want to order next time.

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Since we graced their cutlery with our mouths, the Lady Mildmay’s menu looks like it’s about to be added to and mixed up a little, but you can expect food of the same quality even if some of the dishes we sampled might not be on the menu this season. We took some sneaky photos of their chef tasting session and got hungry all over again with the heavenly aromas of sausage, mash and baby chicken. Have a look at our photos, courtesy of the chair climbing Mike Barry.

The Lady Mildmay, 92 Mildmay Park, N1 4PR

020 7241 6238

Open Monday to Saturday 11am–11pm, Sunday 12 – 10:30pm

North Four, North London magazine, The Lady Mildmay pub, restaurant, food, menu, penne
North Four, North London magazine, The Lady Mildmay pub, restaurant, food, menu, penne
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